18 April, 2023
ROLEX TURN-O-GRAPH REF.6202 DE LUXE
1953年から2年間に満たない短い製造期間で知られる
TURN-O-GRAPH (ターノグラフ)。
回転ベゼルを備えたスポーツロレックスのルーツともいえるモデルです。
TURN-O-GRAPH (ターノグラフ)。
回転ベゼルを備えたスポーツロレックスのルーツともいえるモデルです。
Known for its short production run of less than two years since 1953 TURN-O-GRAPH.
It is a model that can be said to be the roots of the sport Rolex with a rotating bezel.
It is a model that can be said to be the roots of the sport Rolex with a rotating bezel.
今ではROLEXスポーツモデルに当然に装着される回転ベゼルの始まりはここからです。
真鍮を母材にメッキを施したベゼルにインサートを挟み込んでいます。
割れやすく繊細なベゼルは長年の使用で状態の悪いものが多く、
オリジナルを確認できる今回の品は希少です。
1950年代ですので、セミバブルバックなどに見られたプラスリューズが確認できます。
This is where the rotating bezel, now a natural fit on ROLEX sports model, began.
The insert is sandwiched between a bezel made of plated brass base metal.
The bezel is fragile and delicate, and many of them are in poor condition after years of use,
The original bezel can be confirmed, making this item a rarity.
Since this is the 1950s, the plus crown, as seen on semi-bubble backs and other watches, can be seen.
The insert is sandwiched between a bezel made of plated brass base metal.
The bezel is fragile and delicate, and many of them are in poor condition after years of use,
The original bezel can be confirmed, making this item a rarity.
Since this is the 1950s, the plus crown, as seen on semi-bubble backs and other watches, can be seen.
針や文字盤のバリエーションが多く存在する TURN-O-GRAPH。
その多くがスポーツモデル、夜光インデックスですが、
こちらはノンルミナス、金無垢インサートの稀有な個体です。
ダイヤルはブラックミラーと外周にゴールドのツートン。
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUALの文字は下地出し、
ミニッツドットはロレックスではほとんど見かけることのない、パールドロップ手法を採用しています。
TURN-O-GRAPH exists in many variations of hands and dials.
Most of them are sports models with luminous indexes,
But this is a rare non-luminous, solid gold insert.
Most of them are sports models with luminous indexes,
But this is a rare non-luminous, solid gold insert.
The dial is two-tone with black mirror and gold on the outer edge.
The ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL script is gilt,
The minute dots are pearl drop, a technique rarely seen on Rolex watches.
この希少な1本をオーバーホールし、工程を解説します。
We will service this rare piece and explain the process.
搭載ムーブメントCal.645は、バブルバックの最終キャリバー。
セミバブルバックに使用されることが多く、
巻き上げ機構にも薄くする改善が見られます。
初期のバブルバックに比べると、自動巻も巻き上げ効率が少々上がっている印象です。
The movement Cal. 645 is the last caliber of the bubble back.
It is often used in semi-bubble backs,
The winding mechanism has also been improved to make it thinner.
Compared to the early bubble backs, the winding efficiency of the automatic winding also seems to have improved a little.
It is often used in semi-bubble backs,
The winding mechanism has also been improved to make it thinner.
Compared to the early bubble backs, the winding efficiency of the automatic winding also seems to have improved a little.
裏蓋を開けると自動巻ブロックがムーブメントを大きく覆います。
When the back cover is opened, the automatic winding block largely covers the movement.
ムーブメントは「TIMED 6 POSITIONS」の刻印が見られます。
6姿勢での精度調整されたクロノメータームーブメントです。
メンテナス前の為、全体的に酸化被膜による変色が見られます。
The movement is marked "TIMED 6 POSITIONS".
This is a chronometer movement with precision adjusted in 6 positions.
The movement is unmaintained and has some discoloration due to oxidized coating throughout.
This is a chronometer movement with precision adjusted in 6 positions.
The movement is unmaintained and has some discoloration due to oxidized coating throughout.
TURN-O-GRAPHにはクロノメーターとそうではないものとが存在しますが、
こちらは、ダイアルにクロノメーター表記が確認できます。
針のくすみが目立ちますが、ある程度取り除くことができるタイプです。
There are two types of TURN-O-GRAPH: chronometer and not chronometer,
This one has the chronometer indication visible on the dial.
The hands are noticeably dull, but of a type that can be removed to some extent.
This one has the chronometer indication visible on the dial.
The hands are noticeably dull, but of a type that can be removed to some extent.
衝撃から時計を守る「耐震装置」について解説しましょう。
時計が外部からの衝撃に襲われた際に、
最も細い軸である天真が折れない様に、衝撃を和らげます。
代表的なINCABLOCやROLEXが好んで使うKIF SHOCKなど、
アンティークでは非常に多くの種類があります。
こちらの耐震装置は50年代に多く見られる機構です。
渦巻き状のバネとルビーの穴で軸を支え、
外に飛び出さない様に受け側のルビーが添えられます。
バネ部分が衝撃を吸収します。
Let us explain the "anti-seismic device" that protects a watch from shocks.
When a watch is struck by an external shock,
The shock is softened so that the thinnest axis, the balance, does not break when the watch is struck by an external shock.
The typical example is INCABLOC and KIF SHOCK, which ROLEX likes to use,
There are so many types in antique watches.
This earthquake-proof device is one of the most common mechanisms seen in the 50's. It consists of a spiral spring and a ruby.
The shaft is supported by a spiral spring and a ruby hole,
The ruby on the receiving side is attached to the shaft to prevent it from jumping out.
The spring absorbs shocks.
When a watch is struck by an external shock,
The shock is softened so that the thinnest axis, the balance, does not break when the watch is struck by an external shock.
The typical example is INCABLOC and KIF SHOCK, which ROLEX likes to use,
There are so many types in antique watches.
This earthquake-proof device is one of the most common mechanisms seen in the 50's. It consists of a spiral spring and a ruby.
The shaft is supported by a spiral spring and a ruby hole,
The ruby on the receiving side is attached to the shaft to prevent it from jumping out.
The spring absorbs shocks.
中心の穴から見える小さな点が天真です。
軸断面の直径はおよそ8/100mm、繊細です。
The small dot visible through the center hole is the balance staff.
The shaft cross section is approximately 8/100 mm in diameter and delicate.
The shaft cross section is approximately 8/100 mm in diameter and delicate.
それでは分解を始めましょう。
まずは予洗いから。メッキの劣化は修復しませんが、
強い汚れや酸化被膜を落とします。
Let's begin disassembly.
The first step is to pre-wash. This will not repair the deterioration of the plating, but it will remove strong dirt and oxide film.
The first step is to pre-wash. This will not repair the deterioration of the plating, but it will remove strong dirt and oxide film.
超音波と専用の溶剤で自動洗浄を行います。
Automatic cleaning is performed by ultrasonic waves and a special solvent.
元の保存状態が良いこともあり、綺麗に洗浄できました。
酸化皮膜が取れ、全体的にパリッとした印象です。
上の写真「スーパーバランステンプ」は、通常と違い、
ネジ部分が空気抵抗を受けにくい構造です。
慣性モーメント調整用のミンタイムスクリューを2本備えています。
The original was well preserved and cleaned up nicely.
The oxide film has been removed and the overall impression is crisp.
The "Super Balance with Hairspring" pictured above differs from the usual,
The threaded part of the screw is less susceptible to aerodynamic resistance.
It is equipped with two micro stella screws for adjusting the moment of inertia.
The oxide film has been removed and the overall impression is crisp.
The "Super Balance with Hairspring" pictured above differs from the usual,
The threaded part of the screw is less susceptible to aerodynamic resistance.
It is equipped with two micro stella screws for adjusting the moment of inertia.
組み上げながら、自動巻の解説です。
手巻き機構もついていますので、手巻きでの力の流れを解説します。
こちらがゼンマイにつながる角穴車の付属パーツ。
This is an explanation of the automatic winding while assembling.
Since the watch is also equipped with a manual winding mechanism, we will explain the flow of power in manual winding.
This is the attached part of the ratchet wheel that connects to the mainspring.
Since the watch is also equipped with a manual winding mechanism, we will explain the flow of power in manual winding.
This is the attached part of the ratchet wheel that connects to the mainspring.
手でぜんまいを巻き上げると、「→」の順に力が伝わります。
3の卍型のバネの中心が、ぜんまいの軸が繋がっています。
When the mainspring is wound up by hand, force is transmitted in the order of "→".
The center of the spring in the 卍 shape of 3 is connected to the axis of the mainspring.
続いて自動巻のです。
回転錘(ローター)の軸には、一方向だけ力が伝わる様に、
バネが仕込んであります。
Next is the automatic winding.
The shaft of oscillating weight is equipped with a spring so that force is transmitted in only one direction.
The shaft of oscillating weight is equipped with a spring so that force is transmitted in only one direction.
組み上げの様子がこちら。
中心にローターが取り付けられ、回転力が伝わっていきます。
赤→では先の写真のバネで回転が逃げる仕組みです。
オレンジ色の方向のみ力が伝わります。
いわゆる「片巻き」のこちらは、
ローターが時計回りに回った時のみ
ゼンマイを巻き上げます。
「両回転」と比べると、巻き上げ効率は下がりますが、
ローターが360度回転する、「全回転」方式は
バブルバックが世界初とされています。
青色の丸は「第2コハゼ」というパーツです。
青色の丸は「第2コハゼ」というパーツです。
歯車が逆回転しない様に、バネの力で車を引っ掛け、押さえています。
Here is a shot of the assembly.
The rotor is mounted in the center, and the rotational force is transmitted.
In the red direction, the spring shown in the previous photo is used to escape the rotation.
The force is transmitted only in the orange direction.
In this so-called "single winding," the spring is wound up only when the rotor turns clockwise.
Although the winding efficiency is lower than that of the "double rotation," Bubble Back is said to be the first watch in the world to use the "full rotation" method, in which the rotor rotates 360 degrees.
The blue circle is a part called the "second click.
It is held in place by a spring force to prevent the gears from rotating in reverse.
The rotor is mounted in the center, and the rotational force is transmitted.
In the red direction, the spring shown in the previous photo is used to escape the rotation.
The force is transmitted only in the orange direction.
In this so-called "single winding," the spring is wound up only when the rotor turns clockwise.
Although the winding efficiency is lower than that of the "double rotation," Bubble Back is said to be the first watch in the world to use the "full rotation" method, in which the rotor rotates 360 degrees.
The blue circle is a part called the "second click.
It is held in place by a spring force to prevent the gears from rotating in reverse.
裏返すと。
矢印の方向へ動き、本体の卍型のバネを押し出して回します。
卍バネに力を集約することで、手巻きの際には、自動巻き部分に
自動巻の際には、手巻き部分に余分な力がかからない様、工夫されています。
その為、自動巻で巻き上げた際に、リューズは回りません。
ちなみに後継機種cal.1030では力を逃がす機構が無い為、自動巻きの際にリューズが回転します。
When flipped over.
It moves in the direction of the arrow, pushing and turning the 卍 shaped spring on the main body.
By concentrating the force on the 卍 spring, the watch is designed so that when the watch is wound manually, no extra force is applied to the automatic winding section when the watch is wound automatically.
Therefore, the crown does not turn when the watch is wound automatically.
Incidentally, the successor cal. 1030 does not have a mechanism to release the force, so the crown turns during automatic winding.
It moves in the direction of the arrow, pushing and turning the 卍 shaped spring on the main body.
By concentrating the force on the 卍 spring, the watch is designed so that when the watch is wound manually, no extra force is applied to the automatic winding section when the watch is wound automatically.
Therefore, the crown does not turn when the watch is wound automatically.
Incidentally, the successor cal. 1030 does not have a mechanism to release the force, so the crown turns during automatic winding.
さて、組み上がりました。
機械の状態を確認してみましょう。
初見の測定では、遅れに加え振り子の動作が弱く
ビートエラーも。まだまだ調整の余地があります。
Now, it is assembled.
Let's check the condition of the machine.
Initial measurements show that, in addition to the delay, the pendulum is operating weakly and beat error. There is still room for adjustment.
Let's check the condition of the machine.
Initial measurements show that, in addition to the delay, the pendulum is operating weakly and beat error. There is still room for adjustment.
専用の工具で、アンクルの爪石を調整します。
Adjust the pallet jewel with a special tool.
調整後の精度は、調子良く動いています。
着用すると、誤差で遅れる傾向がありますので、
測定値では少し進む様に調整します。
機械によって多少違いがありますので、この辺に経験の差が出ます。
After adjustment, the accuracy is running well.
When worn, it tends to lag behind due to error,
Therefore, we adjust the measurement value so that it moves forward a little.
Since there are some differences among machines, this is where the difference in experience comes into play.
When worn, it tends to lag behind due to error,
Therefore, we adjust the measurement value so that it moves forward a little.
Since there are some differences among machines, this is where the difference in experience comes into play.
さて、外装を組み上げましょう。
専用の剣付け台で、針を取り付けます。
押しすぎない様、また車の下側が支えられる様になっています。
Now, let's assemble the exterior.
Install the hands with the special sword attachment stand.
It is designed not to be pushed too far and to be supported by the underside of the car.
Install the hands with the special sword attachment stand.
It is designed not to be pushed too far and to be supported by the underside of the car.
ずいぶん明るくなりました。
It is much brighter now.
自動巻ブロックを組みます。
Assemble the automatic winding block.
実測を行い、メンテナンス完了です。
Actual measurements are taken and maintenance is completed.
Power reserve 40hour
Rate test +15sec/day
Dial up 283 deg +13sec/day
Dial down 285 deg +18sec/day
Crown down 235 deg +8sec/day