UNIVERSAL GENEVE Golden Shadow Date Cal.1-67 Ref.167102/02

COMMENT

クッションケースに18Kイエローゴールド無垢を用いたUniversal Genève “Golden Shadow Date”。ダイヤルはきめ細かな縦ヘアラインのシャンパンカラーで、細身のバーインデックスとペンシルハンドを組み合わせた端正なレイアウトです。中央にブラックのプリントが施されており、視認性に優れております。3時位置に縁取りを施したデイト窓を備え、控えめなロゴ配置と相まって、静謐なドレスウォッチとしての完成度を高めています。

ダイヤルはエイジングの兆候が一切無く、整った状態を維持しております。インデックスと針は落ち着いた光沢を維持し、ブラックのプリントが欠けること無く現存しています。ケースは全体に細かな使用傷が確認できますが、フォルムの丸みやエッジはしっかり残され、過度な痩せは感じられません。ユニバーサルには元よりケースバック刻印は薄いですが、リファレンス・シリアルともに判読可能なまま現存しています。弊社にて分解清掃済みです。

搭載されるCal.1-67は、薄型自動巻ムーブメントを得意としたユニバーサル・ジュネーブの技術力を体現するキャリバー。軽快な巻き上げと安定した精度を両立し、Golden Shadowの名にふさわしいエレガンスを支えています。華美に走らず、造形と機械の完成度で魅せる一本。往年の名門らしい気品を静かに湛えたヴィンテージモデルです。

BRAND

ユニバーサル・ジュネーブの歴史は二人の時計師、エミーユ・デコームとジョルジュ・ペレによって1894年スイスで創業されたところから始まる。高級感溢れるデザインウォッチや複雑時計の製造を得意とし、クロノグラフの名品＜コンパックス＞を開発したことで、その名を時計史に刻んだ名門のブランド。

COMMENT

The Universal Genève Polerouter stands as one of the brand’s defining masterpieces. Its dial features a recessed inner ring with five-minute markers, while the center is finished in a lustrous black gilt, creating a sense of depth and contrast. A crosshair and subtle dot minute markers add harmony and balance, giving the watch a classical yet refined appearance. The dauphine hands sweep gracefully across the dial, ensuring both legibility and a cohesive design. The round gold-filled case, with its flat bezel and distinctive twisted lugs, further enhances its character. Notably, this model is celebrated as an early work of Gérald Genta, created during his little-known years, lending it an additional layer of significance.

Powering the watch is Universal Genève’s hallmark “MICROTOR” automatic movement, Cal. 215-1. Unlike conventional automatic rotors, its compact micro-rotor is embedded within the movement, allowing for a thinner profile while maintaining the strength of a screw-back case. This pioneering construction later influenced numerous brands and stands as a testament to Universal’s forward-thinking engineering. The movement is finely finished, praised for both precision and durability.

The condition of this example is excellent. Even after more than half a century, the case retains sharp edges and its original three-dimensional form. It still carries its original acrylic crystal. The dial remains glossy, with the depth and richness characteristic of black mirror gilt preserved. The inner ring shows no signs of deterioration, and its gold tone remains even. The hands have aged naturally but maintain both legibility and visual harmony. The indexes remain clean, their facets catching the light with brilliance. Serviced by us through a complete disassembly and cleaning.

The Polerouter was born in 1954, when SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) commissioned Universal Genève to create an antimagnetic pilot’s watch to commemorate the opening of its pioneering polar route. Its name derives from the 2,600 km transpolar flight path that connected the Atlantic and Pacific via the North Pole. As a pilot’s tool, it embodied the spirit of early aviation, yet its elegant design and technical innovation make it a rare blend of function and artistry. Representing Gérald Genta’s design origins and linking deeply to both aviation and horological history, the Polerouter endures as a model of lasting significance for collectors.

BRAND

The history of Universal Genève began in 1894 when watchmakers Émile Decroix and Georges Perret founded the company in Switzerland. Renowned for its refined design watches and complicated timepieces, the brand secured its place in horological history with the creation of the legendary Compax chronographs. Its legacy continues to resonate as one of the great names in Swiss watchmaking.